VOICE -123 Row Fourteen

Derek, head chef at Row Fourteen

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The Similkameen Valley, also known as “organic capital of Canada”,  is filled with orchards, wineries, ranches with a backdrop of the stunning rugged mountains and the river sweeping across the land. The Similkameen has always been a gem that makes people enjoy some of the best produce BC or Canada has to offer. Still, this region has been more of a quick drive-through or stop-over en route to the Okanagan Valley for most people.

Row Fourteen is a new landscape in the Similkameen that is going to change all that. The restaurant, recently opened in August 2019, harbours the ethos of what this valley is all about – nurturing the land and feeding people.

It is right on the working farm of the Klippers Organics in Cawston.
Not long ago when the founders, Kevin and Annamarie Klippenstein asked Chef Derek Gray if he would be interested in coming on as a partner on their new adventure as the head chef. With a simple handshake and commitment table on a farm, Row Fourteen was born.

VOICE(V): “Chef Derek, can you tell us a little bit about your culinary journey?”

Derek(D): “My first introduction to cooking was at my high school cafeteria class. I opted for easy credit to graduate, but then I soon realized that it was something I wanted to pursue. I went straight from the cafeteria class to working in a restaurant in Steveston with Chef Alex Tung. Through attending the Northwest Culinary Academy, I met Chef Neil Taylor and I worked for him for 5 years through Cibo Trattoria and his own restaurant, España. Then I was asked to open Savio Volpe as head chef under Executive Chef Mark Perrier.”

V: “How did you end up moving from Vancouver to the Smilikameen?”

D: “I came to Cawston back in 2018, as a part of a learning journey to see where my purveyors were and get a better understanding of what they did. I have known Kevin and Annamarie for almost 12 years, and on that very visit, Kevin gave me a farm tour and picked a peach right from the tree for me to taste. It tasted like a sunshine and I said, ‘This is where the food comes from. Why isn’t there any restaurant where the source is?’ That night I wrote down in my notebook, ’Vancouver is not my final destination. I want to have a restaurant in a farm’. I just threw it out there in the universe, closed my book and went back to my job but this is where I am at now!”

The journey to opening up a farm-to-table restaurant on the farmland was not an easy one. The Agricultural Land Commission turned them down. The only way to get any approval was to apply for a distillery licence, from there the restaurant could be. Untangled Craft Cider laid the foundation for Row Fourteen. The restaurant was then built in the 14th row of the apple orchard. Both businesses can’t stand alone: they are very hand in hand.

V: “ How is your approach to food?”

D: “My approach to food, in my early days, was ‘more is complicated. As I matured as a chef, my approach to food has grown to be subtle and ‘less is best’. If someone is taking their time growing nice produce, I respect that at all cost. If it is tomato at its peak, it should be tomato and only a few components. I like to make the main ingredient shine first and foremost.”

V: “How do you build the menu?”

D: “It is not just me that builds the menu, it is all of us.  I have a sous chef who has worked at Wildebeest and my Jr sous chef who is from Tokyo, Japan, whom I worked with 5 years since Savio Volpe. Everybody in the team puts their ideas on the menu.
The menu changes from 10 to 30% everyday and we always ask ourselves, ‘what can we work on better today?’  It is different from many farm-driven restaurants in the city where you have to keep up with the volume and there are certain things that you just have to get from elsewhere. Here, if we don’t have certain things, we don’t have them. Everything goes by season and what’s grown locally here.”

Indeed, staying true to the season and celebrating the local ingredients is what Row Fourteen is all about. In the morning of VOICE interview, Chef Derek took his kids out with the sous chef’s family as well as the kitchen staff, and they visited the local farm that provides the valley with great black berries. They picked on a bounty of blackberries, which made a beautiful appearance on their beets dish on the same day. The softly cooked beets topped with caramelized sake kasu whey, blackberries and walnuts – the dish was pleasantly surprising. It was a new way of enjoying beets and a true farm-to-table experience! 

When you head to Okanagan next time, make the Similkameen your destination too. You can easily spend a full couple of days exploring the beautiful surroundings. When it is time to dine, Row Fourteen will show you its true local beauty and abundance. You will have a whole new “table on a farm” experience by sipping sustainably crafted cider and local wines, and the best of all, tasting the land.

Up next is Chef Derek answering to VOICE’s 10 QUESTIONS and talking about his up and personal culinary life in the Similikameen.

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